[Kabar-indonesia] 2 of 6: Ambon's Haunted Ruins [by Goenawan Mohamad (4 reports)]
JoyoNews at aol.com
JoyoNews at aol.com
Tue Aug 15 02:01:13 MDT 2006
4 Tempo Magazine Independence Day Reports (2 of 6):
- From Ambon and Scorched Ruins
[by Goenawan Mohamad]
- A Return to Living in Harmony
[Ambon is once again congenial.
Signs of conflict are fading away]
- Rediscovering the Lost Poso
- Sambas Dreaming [Victims of
inter-ethnic rioting in Sambas were
scattered everywhere. Some remain
in refugee camps.]
Tempo Magazine
No. 50/VI
August 15-21, 2006
Cover Story
>From Ambon and Scorched Ruins
by Goenawan Mohamad
AMBON is still haunted by scorched ruins. On both sides of the streets:
dismal rubble. People in this Moluccan town still talk in great detail about the
long period
of savagery that started early in 1999 and continued almost to 2005: their
houses burned to the ground, churches, mosques and universities razed, bombs
assembled and detonated, speedboats attacked, thugs and paramilitary from outside
Ambon stirring up hatred, the military and police inciting people, some
leaving probably
never to return, hundreds of friends and family slaughtered. At the end of
this
conflict between Moluccan Muslims and Christians, around 13,000 were dead;
how can people forget this?
Miraculous, though, is the fact that in July 2006 the city and its
inhabitants appear back to their friendly, courteous and genial ways, for which Ambon is
renowned. Life is on the mend and it seems now there is greeting where before
there was silence: the airport looks brand new, better than the one in Solo,
and cleaner than the one in Surabaya. In the lobby of "Amans" hotel, where
guests can connect to the world via wireless Internet, people were welcoming some
young Moluccan women participating in a beauty contest. And the roads are
crowded and the market humming.
I was only briefly passing through, of course; I was just a guest. I could
not possibly really know if there was trauma, revenge and ongoing suspicion
lurking there in the alleyways. Yet something seems convincing when popular
Moluccan songs blare out from roadside CD stalls, when women both with and without
headscarves sit chatting in the seafront rujak stalls run by Christians, and on
the day the ship Lambelu berthed, the harbor front thronged with people from
all walks of life. Among the street-carts across from the offices of Firma
Abudullah Alie (the Alie family are one of the Chinese Muslim families who have
lived in the Moluccas since the 19th century) is a newspaper vendor; the latest
issue of Playboy magazine is clearly on display. A little further off, the
Mardika market is full of color: rows of bright red tomatoes, vivid green limes,
yellow sago in plastic bags, cinnamon-brown smoked fish.
Driving along the bay I heard a driver say: "We here are stupid people,
wanting a thriller made of us." He was speaking of that dreadful civil war, of
course.
He seemed to realize, as the world realized, that here God was invoked by
both sides, with blood-smeared beliefs, for unclear causes; perhaps part of the
jockeying for position by people in upper echelons, perhaps some thugs fighting
over their zones of extortion. I wasn't sure whether that driver was speaking
with sadness or ridicule. But the awareness was there, or perhaps just
fatigue, with no energy left to turn into anger. People here are returning to life
from congregating on the pavements: in small trade, in small conversation, in
practical actions, and in friendships that can still be salvaged. They patch
and darn life, they build houses from ruins, rub balm into their wounds.
I fell in love with this town. And not just because of its adornment of green
trees, its nestling by the bay, and all rounded off nicely with the hills.
l l l
…no one exists alone;Hunger allows no choiceTo the citizen or the police;We
must love one another or die.
-W.H. Auden
Something finally speaks from within that tragedy, "We must love one another
or die."
"Love" is maybe too inflated a word. But what is the option besides death?
Auden's poem, September 1, 1939, was written on a corner of 42nd Street in
New York as the world was haunted by a great war. But let us imagine that the
poet was not in New York, but in Ambon-or in some corner of Indonesia-with the
Republic on the brink of being torn apart by local civil war, like the tragedy
in the Moluccas. Auden probably would also have felt "…the clever hopes
expire", and "a low dishonest decade" when waves of anger and fear whirl, and when
"the unmentionable odor of death offends the…night".
However, as in Ambon, life can redeem itself: an alternative can always be
constructed when "clever hopes expire". At the end of his poem, Auden asks
whether he, who is also made of "Eros and dust", and "beleaguered by the same
negation and despair, can show an affirming flame." The question seems tentative or
modest. But hope is not something impossible. The poem mentions the "ironic
points of light" flashing in the dark, when the night offers no protection.
The word "ironic" is important here. It is supposed to come from the Greek
eirôneia, meaning "feigned ignorance". It comprises distance, even a step back
or turning away from sure "I-know"ing.
Auden wrote this poem at a time when:
…blind skyscrapers useTheir full height to proclaimThe strength of Collective
Man,
This was the time when various forms of totalitarianism were in full parade.
This was the time when each language spewed out twisted slogans of pride and
one-upmanship. Just like our times: when "collective man" is incited by blaring
loudspeakers on minarets, when religions that should foster humility actually
become pretexts for the "I-the-knowing-and-right-and-pure" attitude, when
faith gradually changes into social identity, and the "ummah"-one form of that
collective man-becomes so important, even more important than truth.
Irony reveals that actually there is something jarring in such positions. In
taking distance, we find that no social identity can ever be entirely
formulated. The Muslim or Christian "ummah" can mean many things, for each one
comprises unacknowledged differences. And actually, within any forming of social
identity even when we speak of the "ummah", there is repression.
The seeds of violence are sown with that repression: over time, those not in
line with the collective "us" will be eliminated. In Ambon on April 27, 2001,
the local radio station Suara Perjuangan Muslim Maluku (The Voice of the
Moluccan Muslim Struggle) was quoted broadcasting this warning: "If among the
Muslims there are those who still talk of reconciliation, kill them!" In the area
of Kudamati, fighting broke out between two Christian groups who attacked each
other and burned down each other's houses.
Maybe this is why within every social identity there are wounds, and thus
fractures. And attempts are made to shape that identity precisely because of
those fractures. At the same time, that identity formulates itself or is
formulated, it names itself or is named, by a language-language, what is more, not
created uniquely by that identity. It enters a convention. It links into a system;
really, it is just a sign. There is nothing there fully and permanently as
something that it signifies (what, actually, does "ummah" refer to?). Its
meaning appears only when it is aligned with different social identities and is then
delineated by those other identities. It differs, of course, from the-other,
but because it exists in a system of meaning-making, it is not entirely
closed; it is not radically different from the-other. How could it possibly deny
the-other?
"We must love one another, or die", Auden wrote.
Probably "love" is not an inflated word. "To love" means to be enchanted by
the-different, to touch what is limited within oneself at the moment of meeting
the-other, and to be aware that language cannot capture what exists in
oneself or that other. As Auden said, "Each language pours its vain, competitive
excuse."
"Loving" is a simple thing to do.
l l l
In 1969 I crossed the sea from Buru Island to Ambon on a small boat called a
"Landing Craft Material". For nearly 11 hours the waves washed over the narrow
deck that stank of eucalyptus oil. In late July 2006 I repeated this journey,
but this time by speedboat that got me there in around three hours.
The other shore is almost never beyond reach. To be in the Moluccas is to be
aware of this, and the meaning of "abroad": a place far from one's home, yet
not completely foreign. In Malay, another country is referred to as "across the
water".
So the sea has two sides that are in opposition, and yet fused: the sea both
divides and connects, it is a thing between but a locus unto itself. It is
full of suspense, it fascinates.
Chairil Anwar, in one of his most famous poems, Cerita Buat Dien Tamaela,
presents the voice of a mythological figure from the Moluccas-it is not clear
where exactly-calling himself "Beta Pattirajawane". He has a voice of thunder;
when he is born he proudly proclaims that people should bring him "boat and
oars". And he calls:
Mari menari! Come, let's dance
Mari beria! Come, be merry!
Mari berlupa! Come, forget!
In other words, the sea signifies exciting adventure, the freedom to forget,
travel away from home. Sometimes the sea is the zone between home and abroad,
a transit. Sometimes it is abroad. The sea is never empty: it is the source of
life and connects trade, war, migration, and civilizations.
And in this way it becomes a new home, a home that is not the closed place of
origin, but rather one that grows because of the meeting between
the-different and the-unpredicted. I am reminded of Heidegger's words (speaking of the
flow of the Danube in Hölderlin's poem der Ister): "Homecoming is...a transit
through otherness".
Perhaps that is Indonesia, that is its fate: the place of our homecoming, but
also a series of "abroads", a place to which one pays respect, yet also the
home that is at once merry and complex in diversity.
--------------------------------
Tempo Magazine
No. 50/VI
August 15-21, 2006
Cover Story
A Return to Living in Harmony
Ambon is once again congenial. Signs of conflict are fading away
THE tall, sturdy man was standing and looking on watchfully in the parking
lot of Patimura Airport, Ambon, on Saturday two weeks ago. The hire-car driver
was staring at passengers coming out of the arrival room one by one. As soon as
he met the gazes of Tempo and a passenger tout named Memed, he smiled.
As Memed approached, Jemy Lakotampesi, 35, the brawny guy, promptly produced
Rp30,000. It's a tip for Memed as a fare getter. "Ah, it's not enough,"
protested Memed. "It's enough. I still have to pay rental fees," Jemy responded.
Instead of quarrelling, they burst out laughing.
Jemy is a native of Ambon, living in Tawili village, 3 kilometers from the
airport. He had worked as a hire-car driver a long time before the outbreak of
the bloody conflict in Ambon in 1999. It's over the same period that his
friendship with Memed, the 29-year-old Javanese, had developed. But the communal
fighting separated both.
According to Jemy, Memed lives in Desa Batu Koneng village, Ambon
municipality. They had never wanted the conflict between Christians and Muslims. But they
couldn't help it: during the period of hostility, Jemy had to be close to
Christians while Memed felt safer to work for Muslim drivers. "At that time Memed
was not near to me," said Jemy, driving eastward to the city of Ambon, which
was getting dark.
Gradually, clashes abated. The two friends were reunited. Their business
relations returned to normal. "Yes, we're now good friends again," added Jemy.
Ambon did change. People were no longer afraid of traveling. Roads were
packed with heavy traffic. The sounds of gunshots were replaced by those of car
horns; cries of war became car drivers' yells at becak (tricycle) riders who
lacked discipline on the streets. "Eh, move fast, don't you be sleepy as you
ride." But nobody gets furious now.
When Tempo's car entered the Aster alleyway, various notices decorated this
Christian area: posters inviting people to join church services and those
calling for ukhuwah Islamiyah (Islamic brotherhood).
At the Paso market, Ambon-which used to be under Christians-vendors of both
faiths mingled. They were squatting, forming lines, while offering various
kinds of fish. Their tempting shouts frequently got a friendly laugh.
The market of Mardika, Batu Merah, once controlled by Muslims, displayed a
similar scene. There, lots of Christian sellers scraped a living. "I know
nothing about a religious war. I'm happy to see all of us in harmony," said Lesy
Tawainella, 52, a Christian woman. The chili vendor was back to the Mardika
market last year.
l l l
"The situation is indeed improving," said Jhon Ruhulesin, 48, an Ambon
Christian figure. Jhon was one of those who declared the Malino Accord II, which was
signed on February 12, 2002. In concluding the agreement both belligerents
met. "I hope this peace will be sustainable," added Jhon.
The Ambon war was indeed destructive. The Commission for Missing Persons &
Victims of Violence (Kontras) recorded that the conflict claimed 8,000 lives,
with tens of thousands of houses destroyed and 330,000 people evacuated.
A trivial matter triggered the anarchy: a fight between a driver and several
youths. The driver was a villager of Batu Merah Atas, with a Christian
majority. His opponents were youngsters from Batu Merah Bawah, largely populated by
Muslims. The brawl took place on the Idul Fitri holiday, Sunday, January 19,
1999, then it spread and soon all of Maluku was aflame.
Clashes subsided several times, like the pause during the May 1999 general
elections. However, the enmity again emerged and even worsened when security
personnel were involved and militiamen entered from outside Maluku.
It took five years to end the conflict. "We're tired of trying to kill each
other," said Irwan Tahir, a state Islamic schoolteacher in Ambon. The situation
is improving. The regional song Gandonge, which during the hostile period was
tabooed, is now played regularly. It's a song about the beauty of living
together amicably. "Gandonge sio gandonge, mari beta gendong, beta gendong ale
jua…"
But there is still a threat. According to Maluku regional councilor D.K.
Tuhepaly, the problem of refugees could lead to another conflict. As he toured
different regions, he found refugees already getting bored. "They want to go home
soon," he pointed out. The other thing that might cause trouble was the
minimal employment for youths in Ambon.
Jhon Ruhulesin also hoped that a dialog involving all parties would remain
open. "It should include security authorities," he said. He was sure that with
good will behind all efforts, peace in Maluku would be lasting.
l l l
Night fell and our car reached Jalan Sultan Baabullah. Right before the
Al-Fatah mosque, a middle-aged man was busily serving customers in his food stall.
Ahmad, who sold ketupat (rice in coconut leaves), fried fish and eggplant
sauce, adeptly prepared food as his buyers placed orders. A complete serving of
his recipe cost Rp7,500.
That's how he supports his family. During the chaotic period he chose to take
refuge out of town, though he would in fact have been safe in the Al-Fatah
mosque in Batu Merah, the most secure station for Muslims. "But I didn't want to
take risks," said the man of Buton descent, Southeast Sulawesi.
Back home from evacuation, he reopened his modest food stall, which was
visited not only by Muslims but also a lot of Christians. Ahmad was not worried
about being open until after midnight. While conflict was rife, almost nobody
dared to go out after 8pm.
By dawn, the car hired by Tempo arrived at the bridge of Batu Merah. It b
rought to mind the incident seven years ago. Here the blood feud started and the
first page of Maluku's murky story was written.
>From this hill, two houses were seen under restoration. They were among the
first to be burned by the masses in the rioting. The rehabilitation of these
two was almost complete. Their walls and roofs were already rebuilt, leaving
only the paint to cover the structure. An amiable atmosphere prevailed in Ambon
that afternoon...
--------------------------------------------
Tempo Magazine
No. 50/VI
August 15-21, 2006
Cover Story
Rediscovering the Lost Poso
Poso residents try to forget their past conflict. Muslims
and Christians again live in peaceful coexistence.
VAST tracts of cacao plants stretch across the village of Tokorondo, Poso
Pesisir subdistrict, Poso regency, Central Sulawesi. The view is pleasant to the
eye, green dense growth along both sides of the winding road to the foot of
the Poso hill.
At sunup, residents are seen busily drying their crops in their house yards
and on the road. In the evening they would pick them up and store them back in
the house.
In these months the people are busier. Rice stalks in the fields are
ripening. The fertile land and hard work seem indicative of their prosperous life.
Signs of prosperity are seen from the ever-increasing number of people who go on
haj pilgrimage. "Last year, seven Tokorondo residents went on pilgrimage,"
said Andi Baso, head of the Tokorondo Mosque Youths.
Tempo, who stayed overnight at the village late last July, saw many residents
with new vehicles. "I bought the angkot (public transportation van) with the
proceeds from cacao crops," said Abdul Khalik, owner of 3 hectares of
chocolate plantation. At sundown, there are a number of new motorcycles in the mosque
yard.
There is a satellite dish on Abdul Khalik's house. For him, a cell phone is
not a luxury any more. "My son has got one too," he said. Abdul also has
several cows that roam the foot of the Poso mountain for grazing. He also has a boat
for fishing in the sea.
Tokorondo is already tidying up. The fire of vengeance due to the conflict
six years back seems to have vanished from the people's minds. Tokorondo was the
Muslim defense stronghold along the Poso coast. This village was where the
Muslim-Christian conflict first broke out in May 2000. While the riot was
raging, the village was destroyed. Not even a single house was saved from the fires.
The Christian groups used to "occupy" Tokorondo.
>From here the conflict spread across the entire Poso region. The
inter-religious conflict became increasingly fierce following the attack on the Santa
Theresia Catholic Church (GKST) compound at Moengko Baru, Poso, on May 23, 2000.
Five days later, it was the turn of the Wali Songo Islamic boarding school
(pesantren) at the villages of Sintuwu Lembah and Kayamaya in Poso regency to be
stormed.
And to think, the conflict was not triggered by a religious issue. According
to the research team of Yayasan Bina Warga (People's Development Foundation),
Central Sulawesi, the crux of the matter was the fight over the regent's post,
regional secretary's position and a balance in the government posts in Poso.
Then the unsatisfied side became aggressive. As a result of the riots, about
200 Poso residents died, hundreds of others were injured, and thousands of
houses were totally destroyed.
Following the conflict, Tokorondo is the first village to be rehabilitated.
The soccer field is transformed into emergency houses. Today, the residents do
not sleep in the emergency tents any more. In just two years, the people have
rebuilt their houses.
Now the Tokorondo residents try to forget the riots. "We're already tired of
tensions," said Andi Baso. Nevertheless, each time there is a shooting,
security officers would "turn the village inside out," which irritates the Tokorondo
residents. "We're awfully disturbed," said Jamal.
As a gesture of a conflict-free life, Andi often invites Reverend Reinaldy
Damanik to his house. "I always bring sugili (a kind of large eel living in the
Poso Lake) to the Tokorondo residents," said the Chairman of the Central
Sulawesi Christian Church to Tempo.
The way from Tokorondo toward the municipal areas of Poso will pass through
Sepe Silanca, Lage regency. Though different from Tokorondo, the center of
cacao plants, this village is equally beautiful. Along both sides of the road
langsat and durian trees grow. The trees are loaded with the brownish fruits
(langsat is a kind of tasty yellow-white colored fruit).
Sepe Silanca was devastated in an attack by the Muslims in November 2000. At
that time, the people did not care about their orchards. The langsat and
durian fruits were left to rot. The people preferred to stop the passing vehicles
to get their enemies.
Today, the violence is gone. The Sepe residents resume their normal life.
During the fruit season as now, the people display the langsat fruits by the road
for sale en masse. Many Muslims from Ampana and Luwuk visit the place to buy
langsat. "We realize it's no use to keep fighting," said Martha Pondose, a
Sepe Silanca resident.
Martha is not afraid to sell langsat in front of her garden which is flanked
by bushes and cacao plantation owned by Muslim residents. "Big buses often
come. The passengers are pleased to see loaded langsat trees," she said.
Even though some people already live in peace, other Poso residents are still
gripped with fear. "Poso is not peaceful yet," said a Poso town resident to
Tempo. He referred to the Muslim residents of Tentena who to date do not dare
open their shops at the Tentena marketplace. This is also the case with
Christian residents in Tentena. They do not dare to go to the Poso urban areas which
are predominantly inhabited by Muslims.
It is such issues which now become the responsibility of Central Sulawesi
Governor H.B. Paliudju. Paliudju is determined to reconcile the two groups that
even now are still at loggerheads. For example, he already sets aside a fund of
Rp30 billion to pay for the settlement of a number of unfinished problems
following the riots. Despite this, in the eyes of Paliudju, generally conditions
in Poso have improved. "Therefore, the local government has discontinued the
activity of the Central Sulawesi Security Operations Command," he said. Now,
said the Governor, the issue of security in Poso is returned to the local
police, government and the community.
Ulema Chairman of the Palu Al-Khaeraat Islamic School Board, KH Yashya
Alamarie, and GKST Secretary Rev. Irianto Kongkoli expressed their support for all
measures being taken by Paliudju to restore peace in Poso. They appeal to
religious figures not to provoke conflicts.
In order to create peace and security in Poso, Central Sulawesi Police Chief
Brig. Gen. Oegroseno carries out Lanto Dago operations. Lanto Dago is a Poso
expression meaning "rediscovery." "Yes, to rediscover the lost paradise," said
Oegroseno. He promises to arrest anybody who triggers riots in Poso. "We'll
take them to court," he said.
The Central Sulawesi Police are now dealing with a number of people suspected
of trying to trigger fresh riots in Poso. For example, the gang of people who
are suspected of murdering three Poso senior high school Christian girls in
November last year. It turned out that the murder failed to provoke the people.
The five murder suspects turned out to be from different religions.
However, there is criticism against the peace efforts being made by Governor
Paliudju and regional Police Chief Brig. Gen. Oegroseno. The criticism comes
from Tahmidy Lasahido, lecturer at Tadulako University, Palu. Tahmidy observes
that so far the government has not involved the conflicting people in handling
the Poso problem.
According to Tahmidy, this is why the conflict has never been resolved
comprehensively. "Just look at the 2001 Malino Declaration, in which the residents
who took action in the field have not been invited for participation," he said.
Therefore, he suggests that the elites invite for participation the two
communities involved in the conflict.
----------------------------------------
Tempo Magazine
No. 50/VI
August 15-21, 2006
Cover Story
Sambas Dreaming
Victims of inter-ethnic rioting in Sambas were scattered
everywhere. Some remain in refugee camps.
THE type-21 house was more like a hut. Made of wood with its walls full of
holes, the house no longer stood straight on the ground. However, Hasan had no
choice but to keep occupying it. He had for over seven years remained in the
Madura refugee relocation in Teluk Dalam village, Pontianak regency, West
Kalimantan.
The Madura-born 80-year-old now living with his wife Rifah, 70, and one of
his grandchildren, Supandi, 14, left Sambas along with them after the
inter-ethnic conflict broke out in January 1999. In Teluk Dalam there were around 100
other families living like Hasan, dwelling in slums and doing any work in order
to survive.
In Sambas, Hasan was formerly a prosperous farmer. He had seven cows. "Any
seedling planted would grow. Here the soil is bad. It's peat and hot," he said.
In his yard were dozens of cassava roots and lots of corn seeds being dried in
the sun. "We've rarely had rice in the last four years," he said.
The government did support these refugees. They, for instance, were granted
500 square meters of land for farming. But the problem was the same. The soil
is peat soil which is difficult for growing crops. "No plants can grow well on
this land," said Fauzan, a neighbor of Hasan. Fauzan was more fortunate than
Hasan. His wife worked in a factory. "So I can eat rice though not every day,"
he added.
It is not just the Madurese, people in Teluk Dalam still had to live such a
miserable life following the bloody conflict seven years back. A number of
Madura citizens "returning home" were accommodated in Ketapang district. Sampang,
Madura also had the same fate. This, for instance, was experienced by Hasan,
35, occupying a hut with bamboo roofing and decrepit back doors. In the
slanting house, Hasan had lived with his wife Sarinti, two children and a nephew
since his return to Madura in 1999.
In the beginning, aid was flowing in. With thousands of other Madura
evacuees, Hasan received 10 kilograms of rice, cooking oil, sugar and other food each
month. In 2004 he got a refugee departure fund worth Rp500,000 and housing
compensation worth Rp3 million from the government. But around a year ago the
assistance was discontinued. He started doing casual work, as a motorcycle taxi
driver or construction laborer. "Life is so hard, isn't it?" he said to Tempo.
Nonetheless, not all stories of refugees from Madura are sad. Listen to the
account of Haji Marhayat, now living on Jalan Kebangkitan Nasional, Pontianak,
a modest but elegant house with a spacious yard. "I bought the house before
the rioting in 1999," he said.
When the turmoil in Sambas occurred, his wealth was all gone, only several
cows remained. They served as capital for his return to Madura. But life in
Madura turned out to be tough. "My capital was used up, so I decided to get back
to Pontianak," related the 46-year-old. Then he started doing whatever he could
in Pontianak.
The people of Madura once living in Sambas were scattered everywhere.
According to Chairman of the Madura Community in West Kalimantan, Sulaiman, besides
those in refugee relocations in Pontianak like Tebang Kacang, Sungai Asam and
Wajo Hulu, others also lived in Surabaya, Jakarta, or tried their luck in
Malaysia. "Remaining in relocations does not offer proper living conditions," said
Sulaiman.
While depriving Madura citizens of their homes, the hostility in Sambas also
caused the loss of parents of thousands of children who were killed in the
fighting. The turbulence set in after a Madurese man was caught on January 18,
1999 in the hamlet of Parit Setia, Jawai district, Sambas, suspected of theft.
This was followed by clashes between Madura and Dayak ethnic groups. But a
sociologist of Tanjungpura University, Syarif Ibrahim Al-Qadrie, said the chaos in
Sambas constituted an accumulation of many things. "There are cultural
differences between Madura, Dayak and Malay people," he indicated.
A number of Madurese refugees in relocation settlements kept waiting for the
right time to get back to Sambas. "If I have some money for my travel, I want
to return there. It's a hard life here, the soil is infertile," said Hotijah,
now still staying in Tebang Kacang. "I've heard that my land in Sambas remains
there, watched over by neighbors," she added.
-End 2 of 6-
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